Autumn on the Esplanade

Composer Vernon Duke wrote the popular song “Autumn in New York” in 1934, but if he had ever had seen the fall colors of the Esplanade, the title may have been different. As railway service in Chico ended its 80-year run as 1985 came to a close, Tom Messer’s image at Sacramento Ave. shows the right-of-way exposed to the road, but it wasn’t always so.

L237-05-Tom Messer Photo, Courtesy Tom Messer, (Image 1 of 40)

This north view towards E. 5th Ave. in 2017 shows no sign of any railway having been a part of the area’s history. Today these houses are associated with Enloe Medical Center, but in the first half of the 20th century they were stately private residences of the Aves.

L237-10-Stuart Swiedler Photo, (Image 2 of 40)

One could argue stately, if taking into account SN 442 rumbling by with freight, north view, Dec. 1946. Compared with the two previous images, the railway was flanked by trees and other ground vegetation on both flanks. This is the only image found of an electric freight on the Esplanade north of E. Memorial Way.

L237-15-Al Haij Photo, Moreau Collection, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 83196sn, (Image 3 of 40)

Chico Vecino, or “Chico’s Neighbor”, once referred to everything north of Big Chico Creek, and by 1951, the city limit still only reached as far north as W. 7th Ave. This northwest view from 1939 or 1941 of Birney 60 shows an ad for the SN, the Sandy Gulch Market and a pre-1942 sign for Richardson Springs. As Demoro’s “Sacramento Northern” notes, Birney cars were designed By Charles O. Birney of the Stone and Webster Engineering Co.

L237-20-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 110746sn, (Image 4 of 40)

Birney 60 and Birney 61 were the original new Birney cars delivered to the Sacramento Northern Railroad in 1918, the latter seen here in a northwest view at Chico Vecino from Sept. 9, 1943. The airport extension is clearly seen, as is the Richardson Springs’ sign of 1942 and later, as shown in the previous update. Just to the north of Sandy Gulch Market was “Hancock", not listed in the Polk’s Directory, but in one other image sporting gas pumps.

L237-25-Roy E. Covert Photo, McDonald Coll., Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Arch., 161054sn, (Image 5 of 40)

Based on Wayne Monger’s 1983 northwest view, no evidence for the small shelter or any vestige of the significance of this spot remained prior to the railway abandonment. Western Pacific 707, leading this freight, has been preserved at the Western Pacific Railroad Museum in Portola, California.

L237-30-Wayne Monger Photo, Courtesy Wayne Monger, (Image 6 of 40)

Now turning to the southeast on Oct. 20, 1946, the neighborhood begins to be residential, although several large businesses will inhabit the east side. The switch for the siding for Continental Nut Co. in view is a reminder of the industrial nature of the area to the north of the shelter.

L237-35-Erle Hanson Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 147854sn, jpg, (Image 7 of 40)

With about one month until the abandonment of streetcar service, this southeast view of Birney 61 from Aug. 10, 1947 documents the more modest structures on the east side of the Esplanade north of 10th Ave. The Birney cars were called “Safety Cars” according to Demorro’s “Sacramento Northern” to highlight the feature of coming to a full stop if the motorman was disabled.

L237-40-Walt Veilbaum Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 132719sn, (Image 8 of 40)

Another southeast view, ca. 1940s with Birney 62, this time with the switch stand in view as well as the east side toward 10th Ave. According to Demorro, Birney no. 62 was part of a set of 7 cars bought used from the San Diego Electric Railway in the early 1920s and renumbered 62-68. Birney 62 is the lone survivor, still operational at the Western Railway Museum.

L237-45-Carpenter Photo, Jenevein Coll., Courtesy BAERA, W. Railway Museum Arch., 163978sn, (Image 9 of 40)

Birney 60 is ready for boarding in this west view from June 28, 1947. The nickel fare was the last of its kind in California. In 1931, the SN attempted to abandon all Chico streetcar service due to losses, but protestations from the community forged a compromise by the Railroad Commission to cut back service to every half hour, 12 hours a day, Monday to Saturday, with selected service to Diamond Match on 16th St.

L237-50-Vernon Axt Photo, Moreau Coll., Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 163434sn, (Image 10 of 40)

Relative to the earlier streetcars, Birney cars were more economical to operate, needing only the motorman. The not so comfortable interior of Birney 60, left, was taken on Aug 10, 1947. Alternative use of the tracks for transport complemented the limited service, right.

L237-55-George Chope Photo, EL Estacaille Coll., Courtesy BAERA, W. Railway Museum Arch., 129907sn, (Image 11 of 40)

Birney 60 in temporary fall colors of gold with green lettering heads off from the Chico Vecino shelter in 1947, north view. For more about Birney paint exteriors and other interesting details, see Garth Groff et al.’s “Birney Streetcars on the Sacramento Northern” at https://www.wplives.org/sn/birney.html

L237-60-Sappers Collection, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 106974sn, (Image 12 of 40)

Birney 62 glides by Poultry Producers of Central California at 9th Ave. in this southeast view from Feb. 8, 1947. Relocating here from within Chico in the late 1930s, it was listed under feed dealers in the 1950 Polk’s Directory. The ca. 1957 WP Circular No. 167-E listed it as supplied by a team track since it did not have a siding. Big Al’s Drive In has occupied this spot since the 1960s.

L237-65-E.K. Muller Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 120665sn, (Image 13 of 40)

The 1913 map indicates a siding one block south, near E. 8th Ave., serving Adams Lumber and General Petroleum, left. Sterling Lumber would replace the former in the 1920s, and the ca. 1957 WP Circular notes a 3-car capacity for its siding, and a 1-car space for General Petroleum. By 1966, right, the siding is gone, red arrow, with Continental Nut Co. siding still present, green arrow.

L237-70-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 16184sn and Wayne Monger, (Image 14 of 40)

To date, no images of this siding have been identified, and it is obscured in aerial maps available from the 1950s. However, the letters shown above are from a set describing its fate. These letters from 1968 indicate some of the rail had not been removed from the property.

L237-75-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 39785, (Image 15 of 40)

These two letters from Nov. 5, 1963 indicate that Sterling Lumber not longer need the siding, and that General Petroleum’s portion had not been used for years. The reference to Sterling’s use of the airport or 21st and Fair St. would become more popular options for SN customers, and possibly addresses the location of a team track by Poultry Producers of Central California. Still needs investigation.

L237-80-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 39785, (Image 16 of 40)

Birney 62 rattles on, this time seen at Esplanade between 6th and 7th Aves. in an undated northeast view of John Fleming’s Veterinary Hospital. Since leaving Chico Vecino, the images used have been facing east. With tracks on the east side of the Esplanade, it was easier to photograph from the west given the amount of space to maneuver into a good position. But read on …

L237-85-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 109571sn, (Image 17 of 40)

Birney 60 sits between 5th and 6th Aves. on Nov. 10, 1940, left, and with the new water tower on Nov. 11, 1947, right, across the street from Enloe Hospital, a fixture on the Esplanade since 1937. Railfans from the Bay Area, whose photos are exhibited here, would come up for the day, arriving in the afternoon, when the sun was in the southwest, providing light to the northeast into the right-of-way.

L237-90-Vernon Sappers Photos, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Arch., 106985sn, 106976sn, (Image 18 of 40)

Two Birney cars at one spot meant an excursion, this one at 4th Ave. on Oct. 20, 1946 with the sun positioned perfectly. Arthur Lloyd stands to the right of Dudley Thickens, the latter perched on the steps of Birney 60. The sign just to the left of the person with his back to the camera says “Hospital Slow Quiet.”

L237-95-Moreau Collection, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 162897sn, (Image 19 of 40)

Birney 62 heads north, a passenger just having paid a fare at E. 3rd Ave., possibly after shopping at C.O. Byrne’s Grocery at 1264 Esplanade.

L237-100-Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 109572sn, (Image 20 of 40)

One block south at E. 2nd Ave., a passenger awaits Birney 60 painted in its fall colors of 1947. At this juncture, the east side was dominated by large private houses.

L237-105-Addison Laflin Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 163476sn, (Image 21 of 40)

As the twilight approaches, Birney 60 has reached E. 1st. Ave. in 1947, northeast view.

L237-110-Sappers Collection, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 106980sn, (Image 22 of 40)

A favorite subject image is of the Veterans Memorial Hall at E. Washington Ave., built in 1927. Birney 60 is featured in this southeast view from Aug. 16, 1942. Since 2013, the building has been the home of the Museum of Northern California Art or MONCA.

L237-115-Arthur Lloyd Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 114617sn, (Image 23 of 40)

Birney 62 settles in at the Esplanade and E. Memorial Way, the latter referred to today as Memorial Way, in this northwest view from May 1947. The small shelter is the only one that has appeared in images of the line after leaving the one at Chico Vecino.

L237-120-Arthur Lloyd Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 114618sn, (Image 24 of 40)

This southeast view of SN 402, SN 403 and boxcar, used for dating purposes in the last update, finds its place where it belongs in this presentation at the Esplanade and E. Memorial Way on July 27, 1945. Again, electric freight images taken on the Esplanade are hard to come by.

L237-125-Arthur Lloyd Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 114629sn, (Image 25 of 40)

Eventually, after the sun was no longer a factor, even an out-of-towner could get a southwest view of a Birney car, here no. 60 at E. Memorial Way in Oct. 1947. This image is special because it features the Bidwell Mansion in the background.

L237-130-Sappers Collection, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 106978sn, (Image 26 of 40)

With the end of the streetcar era, left from Nov. 9, 1947, the Esplanade would be reconfigured such that the west-side pedestrian path, and the trees on the west flank of the east-side SN right-of-way were removed. A central median with turn lanes was added, as seen in this 1980 image of the Chico Local, right.

L237-135-John G. Graham Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Arch., l, and Dan Engstrom, r, (Image 27 of 40)

The road remained unchanged in the early 1950s as documented by Chico native Don MacInnes’ rare northwest view from Mar. 1952 of the “Spray Train” at E. Memorial Way. Sometime after, as an incentive for the city to accept construction of a new Highway 99, the state agreed to “fix up the Esplanade as part of the deal” according to Debra Moon in “Chico, Life and Times of a City of Fortune.”

L237-140-Don MacInnes Photo, Courtesy BAERA, Western Railway Museum Archives, 163980sn, (Image 28 of 40)

Bookended between the 1956 freeway route location vote, and highway construction in the 1960s, the Esplanade would be transformed from the original Highway 99 to Business 99. The completed revision was photographed on Dec. 22, 1959, beginning with this southeast view of the frontage road to 10th Ave., documenting the loss of the west-side pedestrian path. The Washington Motel would soon become the Matador Motel.

L237-145-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-5 , (Image 29 of 40)

Now a complementary view on Dec. 22, 1959 from 9th Ave. to the northwest, this time from the newly added central median showing the deforested north-bound lanes and the SN tracks. Poultry Producers of Central California was still present at the southeast corner, the arrival of Big Al’s Drive In in the next decade.

L237-150-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-6 , (Image 30 of 40)

Unfortunately, an image of the SN siding at 8th Ave. was not included, as the next in the series from Dec. 22, 1959 was this northwest view from 1st Ave. From this image it is clear that the SN would no longer need the services of the Spray Train showed previously.

L237-155-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-7 , (Image 31 of 40)

Moving further south, a northwest view from Dec. 22, 1959 of the west-side frontage road at E. Francis Willard Ave. …

L237-160-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-3 , (Image 32 of 40)

… and a southwest view at E. Francis Willard Ave. from Dec. 22, 1959 showing the Bidwell Mansion in the background.

L237-165-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-4 , (Image 33 of 40)

This northwest view at the Esplanade and E. Memorial Way shows the original transition to the private right-of-way, Dec. 22, 1959.

L237-170-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-2, (Image 34 of 40)

The series from Dec. 22, 1959 ends with this northwest view along the siding that continued to serve Northern Star Mills into the 1970s. More on this siding in a future update.

L237-175-Copyright California Department of Transportation, 7196-1 , (Image 35 of 40)

If only the clock could be turned back twenty years or more at this northwest view from 7th Ave. from 1983 aboard WP 707, left, the switch for the 8th Ave. siding would have been in view. The siding remains photographically undocumented for now. The southeast view from 11th Ave., right, shows the still intact siding to Continental Nut Co. in 1983.

L237-180-Wayne Monger Photos, Courtesy Wayne Monger, (Image 36 of 40)

Photographing the Chico Local toward the southwest in the late part of a year meant not having to worry about the sunshine as a factor. Wayne Monger still had to battle the blazing lights, particularly of the Matador Motel in this view of Union Pacific, UP, 789 and freight in late 1985 between 9th and 10th. Aves.

L237-185-Wayne Monger Photo, Courtesy Wayne Monger , (Image 37 of 40)

Tom Messer would be present on Dec.29, 1985 to catch the last Chico Local pulled by UP 785, ex-WP GP35, with caboose WP 438 holding up the rear. No parades, no ceremonies, no tears, quietly entering and exiting like a thief in the night.

L237-190-Tom Messer Photo, Courtesy Tom Messer, (Image 38 of 40)

Once the rails were removed, the beautification of the Esplanade, as it was referred to, continued, leaving the rail bed untouched except at intersections of every odd numbered avenue between E. 1st and E. 9th. As shown in 2020, starting at E. 5th Ave., right turn lanes were installed at those positions, crossing the ex-right-of-way directly, red arrows, to alternate with left turn lanes on the even-numbered avenues, blue arrows.

L237-195-Courtesy Google Maps, (Image 39 of 40)

However, thorough inspection will find unequivocal proof that a railway once roamed the Esplanade. West view at E. 3rd Ave., 2017. Appreciation for images and insights from Wayne Monger, Tom Messer, and Allen Wood.

L237-200-Stuart Swiedler Photo, (Image 40 of 40)